En el foro guiri he encontrado a un tipo que parece tener bastante buen criterio, copio y pego sus "speech" y sus ajustes (como referencia, pues copiarlos no vale de mucho):

Well, here's my updated calibration results:

As I've posted, my set suffers from a very noticeable flash lighting problem in the middle of the panel if Brightness is set too high. The problem with that is before calibration this was resulting in bars 17 and 18 crushing, meaning the lowest "above black" detail I was able to see was bar 19. I was mostly able to address this during calibration.

I found out that the Low 2pt adjustment and 5 IRE adjustment greatly influenced/interacted with the Brightness setting. More specifically, on my set, adding any amount of Green to either the Low 2pt or 5 IRE resulted in flash lighting. So essentially I found myself in a huge give and take battle: If I tried for flat grayscale @ 5 IRE/Low 2pt by using the Green adjustment, Brightness would essentially increase (despite me not actually increasing the Brightness setting) and the flash lighting returned. If I then tried to fix the flash lighting by turning down Brightness blacks of 17 and 18 would crush again. It took a lot of back and forth trial/error, but I was able to baby the 5 IRE setting so that I could get Brightness up enough for 18 to be visible and 17 to be JUST (and I mean JUST) visible if I am standing right in front of the screen while also avoiding any flash lighting. This was essentially accomplished by purposely raising Blue and Red higher than necessary @ 5 IRE which slightly increases Brightness without causing any flash lighting issues. As you can see from the results, I had to sacrifice having a flat grayscale @ 5 IRE (DeltaE of 0.8) but this is very negligible if not totally unnoticeable with any material.

Another point of interest is Contrast: the lower you go from Contrast of 97 (which is where 235 clips on my set, no WTW headroom) the more the IRE controls interact with one another after about 50 IRE. Translation: Let's say you wanted to have WTW headroom so you set Contrast to 90 (which clips white @ 243 on my set so you get plenty of WTW headroom)...well, then when you try to fine tune the 20pt you will notice that any adjustment you make at 50 IRE or above will interact with the immediate IRE after it. So if you add 5 Blue to 55 IRE, it will also add Blue to 60 IRE whether you want it to or not. Chad B has a very handy guide to overcome this behavior (it is tedious and pain staking but it will work) if you want accurate grayscale AND WTW head room. Me, I do not really care for WTW (above 235) so it's a non-issue. So the Contrast setting in my calibration results is for white clipping @ 235 (i.e. no WTW headroom).

Regarding the "season to taste" settings, like Super Resolution and all that other crud: I always avoid them as they are never (IMO) "reference" but "preference" in terms of how they impact the picture. Especially TruMotion. I for one have had no issues with motion handling either during FPS gaming or watching Football. I also have no issues watching 24p Blu-ray material, so TruMotion will continue to stay off. In fact, I cannot think of one iteration of TV or Projector I have ever owned where I used such a setting. Hate the SOE it exhibits.

Lastly, take these settings, ESPECIALLY the 2pt and 20pt adjustments, with a huge grain of salt. No two sets are ever the exact same. Add in the fact these settings are custom for the flash lighting problem I had to overcome and I highly doubt they will do much good without testing with appropriate equipment. Plus I am still learning the finer points of calibration.

***Of interest, before calibration I measured the color and gamma presets and confirmed Warm2 and Gamma 2.4 are the best out of box settings to use***
***Also, CMS was not calibrated at all due to known inherent issues with the CMS implementation in these sets***

Quote:
Expert1

OLED 45
Contrast 97
Brightness 55
H Sharpness 10
V Sharpness 10
Color 50
Tint 0

Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Color Gamut Standard
Edge Enhancer Off
Color Filter Off
Gamma 2.4

Warm2

Low -8R, -2G, -8B
High 12R, 19G, 2B

5 IRE 10R, 0G, 10B
10 IRE 2R, 2G, 4B
15 IRE 0R, 2G, -3B
20 IRE -1R, 8G, 2B
25 IRE 9R, 14G, 12B
30 IRE 7R, 14G, 8B
35 IRE 8R, 12G, 8B
40 IRE 6R, 8G, 5B
45 IRE 0R, 8G, 9B
50 IRE 3R, 12G, 12B
55 IRE 8R, 16G, 17B
60 IRE -2R, 3G, 8B
65 IRE 1R, 1G, 5B
70 IRE -1R, 0G, 5B
75 IRE 5R, 7G, 12B
80 IRE -2R, -3G, 5B
85 IRE -6R, -8G, -4B
90 IRE -7R, -9G, -6B
95 IRE -4R, -4G, -3B
100 IRE -1R, 0G, -2B

CMS *DO NOT TOUCH*

Noise Reduction Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off
Black Level Low
Real Cinema On
TruMotion Off
Resumiendo, independientemente del ajuste sobre la gama de grises, Gamma 2.4 y Cálido 2. Yo actualmente tengo gamma 2.2 (previamente gamma 2.4), así que posiblemente cambie a gamma 2.4 (que pesadilla...otra vez reajustar todo).

Voy a ponerme a ello antes de que me venga la sonda, y así parto de una base teóricamente correcta...