Todavía liado con el bicableado de las B&W 603 s3

Hola de Nuevo,

Gracias Ramon Sendra por tu rápida respuesta.

Pero ahora resulta que tengo más dudas, porque buscando por el "Interné" he encontrado un artículo de la revista WhatHiFiSound+Vision, que creo que contradice un poco tu respuesta (aunque mi nivel de Inglés es bajo...). Permíteme reproducir aquí un fragmento del artículo en cuestión :

"Biwiring involves the use of two runs of cable between an amp and a suitable pair of speakers, and works because the return feeds between the speakers and amplifier aren't carrying full-range signal, but only that relevant to the appropriate part of the speaker.

The simplest hook-up between an amplifier and a pair of speakers uses a two-core cable per speaker - one conductor is designated positive, and marked with a '+' symbol and/or red plugs and terminals. The signal goes into a crossover in the speaker: an electrical circuit that splits it between the drive units.

So in a two-way speaker, the bass and midrange signals go to the woofer, while signals above a certain frequency (often around 3kHz) go to the smaller tweeter. In a three-way speaker, the signal is split into bass, midband and treble. Bear in mind, however that a speaker with three drivers may not be a three-way speaker - the term purely refers to the way the signal's split.

One of the problems with a standard crossover is that since one pair of cables carries the signal to and from the amp, bass signals can tend to swamp the more delicate treble stuff, especially in the return (or negative) connection back to the amp.

By separating the signal all the way back to amplifier's output stage, using two runs of cable or a purpose-made four conductor biwire cable, these effects can be greatly reduced. To do this, you need speakers designed for biwiring. That means the crossover needs to be completely split, without the common negative found in standard design.

To allow them to be used with a single two-core cable, the terminals on biwirable speakers are usually connected by some kind of jumper bar or link. That done, you need two positive and two negative connections between the speaker and the amp.

At the speaker end, the four conductors - two positive, two negative - are connected to the terminals, but what happens at the other end depends on the outlets the amplifier provides.

With the possible exception of amps with springclip terminals, which have trouble accommodating even single cables, any amp can be used for biwiring. Some provide twin sets of speaker terminals specifically designed for biwiring, while others have A and B speaker outlets you can use to the same effect. If the latter's the case, you need both sets of terminals turned on all the time.

An amp with a single set of terminals (ie just left +/- and right +/-) can also be used: the two positive conductors from the left speaker are connected into the left '+/red' terminal, and the two negatives into the '-/black'. Repeat this for the right speaker, and that's it. If you have an amp with 4mm banana socket terminals, most cable manufacturers and dealers will supply biwire cables 'commoned' into a single set of plugs to make this even easier.

OK, so down to the practicalities. If your amp has two sets of speaker outputs, biwiring becomes simpler - no need to cram two sets of thick wire into a single set of terminals. Don't worry about sections in the manual about limitations when both sets of terminals are used - these only apply when you are actually using two pairs of speakers. Connecting one pair of speakers using both sets of terminals means the amp's output devices are only 'seeing' the same impedance as when you connect with a single pair of cables, so it's no problem. "

Perdona por el rollo pero es que estoy hecho un lio y me gustaría saber cómo puedo bicablearlas sin dañar el Marantz SR7300 y las cajas.

A10.